Praise the Lard!
Current Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Next Stop: Accra, Ghana
Our flight from the Kruger Game Reserve was marked by a slight delay as a family of warthogs decided to wander onto the runway just before we took off for Port Elizabeth (PE). I’ve been delayed by many things in my life, but never by warthogs. Who knew that getting airborne would involve having a strategic negotiation with Timon and Pumbaa for runway rights?
South Africa boasts an impressive coastline of 3,000 kilometers, featuring both the warm, temperate Indian Ocean and the cool, crisp Atlantic Ocean. The famous Garden Route, which runs parallel to these oceans, is unparalleled in its scenic beauty. Ironically, you can’t see the ocean from the Garden Route itself. You have to drive towards the coast every few hundred kilometers to catch glimpses of the water. Nonetheless, the views are breathtaking. As the driver, it can be frustrating to focus on the road while everyone else is "oohing" and "ahhing" over the scenery.
Our journey along the Garden Route from PE to Cape Town included stops in Plettenberg Bay and Hermanus, providing ample opportunities for sightseeing and activities. Every stop offered something unique, and it felt like unwrapping a series of little gifts along the way.
A clear family favorite was the Cango Caves. There are two tours offered: one for the flexible (yoga enthusiasts) and one for the rest of us mere mortals. To see if you qualify for the more adventurous tour, they have cardboard cut-outs to test your flexibility—basically, you have to fit through a letter-sized mailbox hole. Amazingly, one young lady managed to squeeze herself through but got stuck in the caves itself for 11 hours. Absolutely unbelievable. Apparently, 11 hours without food or water was her secret to squeezing through and rejoining the group. I wish I could make this up. Needless to say, our family, learning from her misadventure, opted for the senior citizens' tour. We watched in awe (and some horror) as the contortionists on the other tour wriggled through tiny spaces.
The 20-million-year-old Cango Caves system consists of hidden chambers cut deep into thick limestone rock. While the tunnels and chambers extend over 4 kilometers (2.5 miles), only about a quarter is open to visitors. These are the most extensive caves in Africa and were inhabited by the earliest bushmen. One of the most famous formations in the caves is Cleopatra’s Needle, a towering stalactite about 9 meters (30 feet) tall, estimated to be around 150,000 years old. The caves are also renowned for their remarkable acoustics, once hosting concerts in the main chamber, Van Zyl's Hall.
As we strolled through Van Zyl's Hall, our guide cheekily asked if anyone wanted to sing on the makeshift stage. Naturally, all the tourists pretended to find their shoelaces incredibly fascinating. Then, one of the English tourists in our group nudged the guide and suggested she sing. With an incredible amount of reluctance, our guide finally agreed.
She took a deep breath and belted out “Ave Maria” with such divine perfection that we were left gobsmacked. Seriously, you could hear a pin drop—probably because everyone had their jaws on the floor. Convinced it was all an elaborate setup, I sidled over to the English tourist and asked, “Why did you ask her to sing?” She looked just as stunned as the rest of us and said, “Honestly, it was a spur-of-the-moment thing—I never expected her to actually do it!” Apparently, the caves not only have great acoustics but also summon hidden opera talents. Who knew?
South Africa is absolutely beyond beautiful, with its geographic diversity being unmatched around the world. From soaring mountains and lush vegetation to vast arid deserts, the country offers an incredible variety of landscapes. The transportation infrastructure is excellent, and I was pleasantly surprised by how courteous drivers are—especially en route to Cape Town. Massive trucks pull over onto the paved shoulder to let traffic pass, and you thank them by flashing your hazard lights. They respond by flashing their lights back. It’s a wonderful system of mutual respect.
However, it’s hard to ignore the severe and abject poverty in South Africa. Townships, home to many poor Black South Africans, are scattered throughout the countryside and cities. Despite achieving political equality, economic equality remains elusive for many. The stark contrast between affluent neighborhoods and impoverished townships is evident, even to our children. Most blue-collar and service-oriented jobs are held by Black South Africans, while many businesses are owned by White South Africans or Westerners. After 30 years of democracy, many Black South Africans feel that the promise of economic freedom remains unfulfilled.
As we approached Cape Town, we saw signs warning to lock doors and windows in baboon territory. After about 15 minutes of seeing nothing, our enthusiasm waned—until we rounded a curve and spotted a baboon sunbathing in the middle of the highway. To the left, two baboons were engaged in a vicious fight. It was bananas! We stopped to stare and point, and they stopped to stare and point back at us before continuing their brawl. Honestly, it felt like we were watching a baboon soap opera. One baboon was clearly the drama queen, flailing its arms while the other tried to look dignified mid-slap. The sunbather, seemingly unfazed, glanced our way as if to say, “Tourists, am I right?” before rolling over for a better tan.
Cape Town is South Africa's crown jewel. With Table Mountain as its iconic backdrop and the Atlantic Ocean at its doorstep, it’s a travel magazine’s poster child for beauty. We spent our first day enjoying the city’s sights and sounds. On a whim, we took a gondola ride up Table Mountain. The gondola rotates 365 degrees, ensuring everyone gets a perfect view. At the top, we were mesmerized by the stunning scenery and the peaceful atmosphere.
Cape Town has a unique vibe—a fast pace combined with a laid-back, sleepy atmosphere. We’ve enjoyed scrumptious meals and an out-of-this-world wine-tasting experience. From our apartment, we look out over the beach and the waves of the Atlantic Ocean. In the distance, we can see Robben Island, once home to political prisoners, those with leprosy, and other dissidents. Visiting the island was a somber experience. For 18 of his 27 years in prison, Nelson Mandela was held here. Our guide, a former political prisoner, returned to ensure that future generations hear their stories firsthand. The conditions were harsh, with treatment varying based on skin color. Black prisoners were even given a daily drink to ensure sterility when they were released from jail. Walking through the island’s austere buildings and barren grounds, you could almost hear the whispers of its painful past. The most moving part was seeing Mandela’s tiny cell and imagining the years he spent confined within those walls. The tour guide’s personal anecdotes added a powerful, human touch to the historical facts.
Our food tour through South Africa has been a delightful journey for the taste buds. We've savored traditional dishes like pap, a staple porridge made from maize; Chakalaka, a spicy vegetable relish that adds a burst of flavor to any meal; and Biltong, a savory, cured meat snack that’s utterly addictive. The grand finale was malva pudding, a sweet, spongy dessert drenched in a rich custard sauce. Each dish tells a story of the country's diverse culinary heritage. When I jokingly mentioned to our guide that I was happily gaining weight on this culinary adventure, he looked at me, smiled, and said, "Praise the Lard!"
South Africa is a diamond in the rough, continually being polished. I can’t wait to see how its future unfolds and enables its full potential. This journey has been nothing short of an adventure, filled with unexpected moments, breathtaking beauty, and profound experiences that have left us richer in every sense. If you ever get the chance, pack your bags and set out for this unforgettable country—just watch out for those baboons on the highway.
