Jozi and the Pussycats

Current Destination: Plettenberg Bay, South Africa
Next Stop: Hermanus, South Africa

Leaving Thailand was an adventure in itself. Our island tour was literally hijacked by a cheeky monkey, who boarded our boat, boldly stole our snacks, and drank our water while we helplessly watched. I’m still upset about this. Then there was our "family-friendly" Muay Thai session that was neither family-oriented nor friendly, leaving us both exhilarated and exhausted. And let’s not forget the best Thai massage ever—courtesy of a masseuse who, along with her colleagues, were convicts. Her criminal history remains a mystery to me to this day. The stories from Thailand could fill a book… but those are tales for another day. For now, we had new destinations awaiting us, starting with Johannesburg via Abu Dhabi, promising fresh experiences and new adventures.

Flying into Abu Dhabi felt like landing on another planet—a desert with no greenery in sight. Ayana, concerned about the lack of trees, wondered aloud how people could breathe without greenery. We arrived at a sparkling new airport, ready to spend our 12-hour layover exploring the Emirates’ capital, one of seven that make up the United Arab Emirates, including the well-known Dubai.

We booked a hotel perfectly situated near the airport for our short layover—or so we thought. It turned out we were next to the old, abandoned airport that looked like everyone had left in a hurry. Creepy and definitely not what we intended. Our mistake hit us hard when we began walking from the actual airport, realizing just how far and hot the trek was. So much for convenience...

The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque was our refuge from the 40°C desert heat. This architectural marvel, built over nearly a decade with the finest materials, left us in awe. Janice and Kasia had to cover up completely, while Ayana and I had slightly more relaxed dress codes. Walking on the sunlit Italian marble felt like traversing an oven, yet the mosque's beauty left us speechless. The world’s largest chandelier inside the mosque dazzled us with its sparkle and jewels, and we cooled down with ice cream made from camel’s milk. I had no idea this was a thing, but the kids didn’t care as it was a surprisingly delicious treat.

With our sweet tooth satisfied, we boarded our flight to Johannesburg, or Jozi as the cool kids call it. As we drove to our Airbnb, Kasia's eyes widened at a sign marking the area we were driving through as a hijacking hotspot. Welcome to South Africa, I thought, my nerves on edge.

Johannesburg, or Jozi, wasn’t built with longevity in mind. It sprang up during a gold rush with minimal planning for the future. To maximize our short stay, we boarded a hop-on-hop-off bus—the best way to safely explore the city’s rich history from high above.

Our first stop was the Apartheid Museum. The experience was stark; we entered through separate gates for Whites and Blacks, immediately highlighting the grim realities of apartheid. Apartheid dictated that non-White South Africans (a majority of the population) were required to live in separate areas from Whites and use separate public facilities. Contact between Whites and other racial groups was severely limited. The different racial groups were physically separated according to their location, public facilities, and social life.

This harrowing history lesson was particularly impactful for us and our girls as I reminded them that Mommy and Daddy would not be allowed to get married. Of course Ayana without missing a beat responded, “So, no one would be around to tell me to clean my room?"

Much of South Africa's history is intertwined with Nelson Mandela. I still remember his release from prison on my birthday, February 11, 1990. At the time, I was annoyed he was overshadowing my special day—typical teenager stuff. My parents, annoyed with me, quickly turned it into a history lesson. Funnily enough, a couple of years later, I had the opportunity to meet both Mandela and then-Canadian Prime Minister Brian Mulroney in person when he came to Canada. I’ve been fascinated by Mandela’s life and legacy ever since.

Our tour of Johannesburg included a visit to Soweto, the largest and most famous black township. These townships were designed to be segregated public-housing estates for Blacks. We visited Mandela’s home there and saw where Desmond Tutu lived. The only fast food place in Soweto is a KFC, humorously dubbed the “Kids Fattening Centre.” Soweto, short for South Western Township, is a vibrant place steeped in history and culture. It was incredible to walk the same streets and see the landmarks I'd only read about.

A major highlight thus far has been our safari in Kruger National Park. Janice had always dreamed of a safari, and it did not disappoint. We were lucky enough to see all of Africa's Big 5—lion, elephant, leopard, rhino, and buffalo—within the first 12 hours. Our guide, KK, was a marvel, spotting animals in the dark with a flashlight while driving. Ayana even asked him if we could see one animal eating another, to which he kindly paused and replied with a smile, “That may be difficult.”

The safari was more than just animal spotting; it was a deep dive into nature's raw beauty. On one occasion, we were intently looking to the side of our jeep when KK suddenly stopped, revealing a herd of seven elephants walking right towards us. Kasia’s face lit up as she turned to me and exclaimed, “Daddy, this is SO cool!” Thankfully, they meandered their way around us as the five of us, including KK, watched in absolute stunned silence.

Eating breakfast at our safari lodge was a daily adventure. Every morning, we’d gobble down our food with the speed of a cheetah, trying to outpace the ever-watchful, snack-loving monkeys. These crafty critters had perfected their "snatch and grab" technique, with a particular fondness for targeting younger kids, who they considered easy pickings. I can attest that this works from experience. Fortunately, the staff patrolled the area armed with sling-shots—don’t worry, they were rock-free—to keep our breakfast from becoming part of the monkey buffet.

One night, KK’s expertise shone brightly—literally. He spotted a tiny chameleon in the pitch dark, a feat that left us all in awe and wondering if he had night vision superpowers. Meanwhile, the "pussy cats," as one fellow passenger amusingly called the lions, were anything but cuddly. They were the VIPs of the savannah, and I, in my infinite wisdom, left my leg hanging out the door to give them more room.

Suddenly, one of these so-called "pussycats" popped up out of nowhere and locked eyes with me. At that moment, I felt a surge of primal fear that I’m pretty sure made my ancestors sit up in their graves. KK, sensing my utter terror, calmly told me to relax. Relax? Easier said than done when a lion is staring you down like you’re the main course at the savannah buffet. The lion flashed its teeth in a grin that seemed to say, “Don’t worry, I’ll take it easy on you,” but somehow, that didn’t make me feel any better as I gently eased my leg back into the car.

South Africa, in addition to its natural beauty, offered us a lesson in democracy. We arrived during the national elections, a significant event as it was only the fifth democratic election since the end of apartheid. The ruling party, in power since Mandela's presidency, faced criticism for increased crime, unemployment, and poverty. It was a poignant reminder of how far the country has come in such a short time. Discussing this with our kids emphasized the importance of understanding history and the progress made since 1994.

A prevailing challenge in South Africa has been load shedding. Load shedding is the deliberate shutdown of electric power in part of a power-distribution system, generally to prevent the failure of the entire system when the demand strains its capacity. This has been an ongoing problem for years across SA. We had conditioned ourselves to believe that this was going to cause some issues during our stay. However, we have been pleasantly surprised that this hasn’t been an issue at all. Part of the reason, as many cynics have pointed out, is that with an election underway, the existing government does not want anyone to associate these problems with them. Some South Africans feel that this is too good to be true and once all the votes have been counted, the country will revert back to their old ways. It will be interesting to see how all this unfolds.

As we continue on our journey in South Africa, from the bustling streets of Johannesburg to the tranquil beauty of Kruger National Park, I reflect on the incredible experiences we've shared. From learning about apartheid to encountering wildlife up close, each moment has been a story worth telling.