Do You Speak Quebec?
Current Destination: Amman, Jordan
Next Stop: Tirana, Albania
It only took a stroll down one street in Amman, the capital of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, for the girls to fall head over heels for the city. One wrong turn, and we landed on an avenue dedicated entirely to animals, particularly birds. There were more birds than people, and the girls were thrilled. I’ve never had such a long chat with a parrot before. The sheer cacophony on the street was deafening – hence my long conversation with the parrot. On “Bird St.,” there were fifteen different bird stores lined up, all vying for attention. I thought, “if we didn’t buy a parrot at the first store, why would we want a macaw from your neighbour?” I have to say it - but clearly the place had gone to the birds.
Given the current situation in the Middle East, we’ve been keeping a close eye on the geopolitical climate leading up to our arrival. The magnitude also hit home of our new environment when we saw highway signs directing us to the Iraqi, Saudi, and Syrian borders as we drove from the airport into the city center. We even spotted a little boy – probably no older than eight – sitting on what looked like a stack of telephone books, cruising down the freeway. I nearly ran into him, too busy thinking my eyes were deceiving me.
Entering Amman, you’re struck by the density of monolithic houses perched on the city’s seven major hills. Unlike its more modern Arabian sister municipalities, this landlocked city has a unique charm despite being considered one of the world’s less attractive capitals. However, what it lacks in looks, it more than compensates for with its incredibly warm and welcoming people. Jordanians have been so hospitable, it’s become a bit of a running joke amongst us. Sometimes, I wonder if we’ve been mistaken for celebrities. We’ve consumed more tea in the past two weeks than I have in my entire life, thanks to every friendly local insisting on offering a cup. With tourism down since last October, we’ve felt like we had the whole country to ourselves – just us and enough tea to sink a ship.
The food has been delightfully delicious. One of the best experiences has been connecting with locals who take us on personalized food tours. Kasia noted that my shorts seam had ripped for the third time, and my zipper had declared it was on a permanent vacation thanks to my ever-expanding waistline. We’ve sampled olives, dates, figs, wood-fired homemade pita, fresh hummus, falafel, mansaf, and kanafeh – all in five hours. Our food tour was supposed to last three hours, but our guide kept feeding us because we kept saying yes – it was all too delicious and fresh to refuse.
I’ve always dreamed of floating in the Dead Sea, especially given my previous inability to float in any other body of water. The Sea, which is actually a lake but doesn’t sound as nice, did not disappoint. The Dead Sea’s salinity is almost ten times that of ordinary seawater. If you evaporated a litre of Dead Sea water, you’d be left with around 250g of salt. The area surrounding the Dead Sea is scorching hot. Walking into the Sea feels surreal – the water is silky and smooth, yet feels heavy. Despite being able to float, drowning is a real risk. Floating on your back takes some getting used to, and balancing carefully is essential to avoid gulping disgustingly salty water or getting it in your eyes. I saw an elderly gentleman succumb to this, and a lifeguard had to hose his eyes for 15 minutes.
Floating on my back, I felt so confident I thought I could drift over to the other side. It would have taken me an hour, but I could have done it with little effort! People come from far and wide to enjoy the therapeutic benefits of the Dead Sea’s salt and mud. The process involves floating for 15 minutes, lathering yourself with mud, baking for another 15 minutes, and then rinsing off in the Dead Sea followed by a cool shower. My skin felt so silky smooth afterward that I hardly recognized myself. I stayed longer than planned and was completely dehydrated by the end.
The Arabian desert sprawls endlessly, its parched landscape often baking under temperatures that can easily breach the high 30s and low 40s Celsius during the unforgiving summer days. Evenings offer slight relief, but the heat remains a constant companion. One of the most unforgettable chapters of our journey unfolded over two days spent with the Bedouins, renowned for their nomadic traditions, warm hospitality, and profound desert wisdom.
Our nights were spent nestled in a cave, an experience that left us awestruck. Around crackling fires, we savored homemade Bedouin bread, hummus, sweet dates, and succulent lamb and chicken. The children were spellbound, soaking in every moment. Mohammed, our gracious host, regaled us with tales of desert lore and treasure hunts that could rival Indiana Jones. As I gazed skyward, the sight of shooting stars, planets, and constellations unfolded in a spectacle untouched by light pollution. It was like camping under the grandest of ceilings—the stars themselves. Kasia likened it to an IMAX theater, but this was no simulation—it was real life, raw and captivating. Despite the eerie silence that enveloped us, sleep proved elusive on our first night, partly from awe at the celestial display and partly from a lingering apprehension of nocturnal desert creatures seeking their next meal.
Embarrassingly, my knowledge of Petra was sparse before arriving in Jordan. I hadn't grasped its deep historical significance or the breathtaking structures crafted millennia ago by the Nabataeans, an industrious Arab people. The ruins even served as a backdrop for scenes in "Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade," a fact Petra cleverly capitalizes on for tourism. The Treasury, one of its iconic facades, stands as one of the most photographed buildings globally and a prominent member of the Seven Wonders of the World.
Since October, the region had fallen eerily quiet, with only a trickle of visitors exploring its ancient paths daily. Walking through Petra, the silence was profound, contrasting sharply with our bustling modern world. It's humbling to consider the engineering feats achieved with the technology of antiquity. Amidst the hushed ruins, we encountered diverse tour groups conversing in numerous languages. As our daughters wandered through the Siq - the pathway leading to Petra - towards the Treasury, they overheard a Jordanian guide leading a group in French. He assumed that they were francophones due to the fact that they lingered as he described in French their surroundings to his tour group.
In that moment, the guide's earnest question to the girls, "Do you speak Quebec?" took them by surprise, rendering them momentarily speechless, much to everyone's amusement. With a playful smile, I intervened to clarify our Canadian roots, turning the situation into a light-hearted geography lesson. I explained that Quebec is a province in Canada, not a language unto itself, and we all shared a laugh over tea, adding an unexpected touch of humor to our Petra adventure once again.
Each passing day in Jordan deepens my admiration for its people. They radiate genuine warmth, a rich sense of humor, and an innate curiosity that has made every interaction a treasure. As our global journey winds down, the question inevitably arises among friends and family: "Which country stands out the most?" It's a difficult question to answer definitively, but one aspect that consistently brings me joy is the heartfelt connections forged over tea with the locals.
Whether discussing sports, the weather, or sharing stories about life in Canada, these conversations have been the highlight of our time here. Even when the girls wander off to explore or take a break from Dad, they often return to find me engaged in animated discussions with a local shopkeeper or sharing laughter with passersby, attempting to converse in my limited Arabic.
Jordan has been a revelation—a country where hospitality isn't just a custom but a way of life. I am immensely grateful for the warmth and hospitality shown to us, making us feel like honored guests wherever we go. Each encounter, each smile, and each shared moment has left an indelible mark, reminding me of the genuine kindness and openness of the Jordanian people.
